- Foreign policy analyses written by CFR fellows and published by the trade presses, academic presses, or the Council on Foreign Relations Press.
As the United States prepares to start its drawdown of troops in Afghanistan, many experts argue that civil society and infrastructure must be strengthened to stabilize the war-torn country. In The Dressmaker of Khair Khana, Gayle Tzemach Lemmon, fellow and deputy director of the Women and Foreign Policy program at the Council on Foreign Relations (CFR), writes that "war reshapes women's lives and often unexpectedly forces them—unprepared—into the role of breadwinner." She chronicles a community of Afghan women who created an entrepreneurial network, which has become a model for economic development.
While traveling as a journalist in Afghanistan in 2005, Lemmon met twenty-eight-year-old Kamila Sidiqi, whose tailoring business created jobs and hope for women in her neighborhood, Khair Khana, a northern suburb of Kabul. Prohibited under Taliban rule from working, Sidiqi began secretly making dresses in her living room to support her five brothers and sisters. As demand for her work grew, she employed over a hundred women.
Through this narrative, Lemmon underscores the integral role of women in the economic development and social progress of Afghanistan. "Money is power for women," Lemmon quotes Sidiqi. "If women have their own income to bring to the family, they can contribute and make decisions. Their brothers, their husbands, and their entire families will have respect for them. I've seen this again and again. It's so important in Afghanistan because women have always had to ask for money from men. If we can give them some training, and an ability to earn a good salary, then we can change their lives and help their families," Sidiqi says.
Lemmon explains: "We are far more accustomed to seeing Afghan women as victims to be pitied rather than survivors to be respected. The Dressmaker of Khair Khana demonstrates once again the resilience Afghan women have shown in pulling communities through conflict, and that women are among the most reliable allies the United States has in the fight to create a stable, safe, and secure Afghanistan for the future."
Read the introduction and first chapter [PDF] of The Dressmaker of Khair Khana.
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Reviews and Endorsements
Reading about this group of women, who refused to give in to an oppressive regime but worked with the constant fear of being discovered, one cannot help but be inspired.
This novel is unique in that it calls attention to the generally ignored heroic actions of women whose everyday lives are a fight for survival.
Kamila's story is a truly inspiring one and a testament to the ingenuity and resiliency of the human spirit.
A captivating war-time adventure story [and] a lesson in tenacity and courage.
A most remarkable tale. It is sure to give perspective on how close people can come to defeat and still pull themselves and everyone around them up to make their lives better.
Lemmon's storytelling is her strength–the way the book is organized is captivating ... make no mistake that The Dressmaker of Khair Khana has solid journalistic chops and remains based in fact ... a feel-good, pleasurable read at the crossroads between journalism and novel.
By sharing these women's courageously tenacious stories, Lemmon provides readers convincing proof to believe, as well.
Definitely a must-read!
Heart-wrenching [and] heartwarming.
Awe-inspiring . . . powerful and humbling.
One of those books you pick up to read and never forget.
Expect to see Dressmaker on beaches everywhere this summer. And on smart summer reading lists, right next to Three Cups of Tea. In a time when women's freedom is challenged and threatened--and not just in Kabul--Kamila's fist-pump of victory is as necessary as it is inspiring.
A riveting and important book.
[A] transporting, enlightening book . . . a fascinating window on Afghan life under the Taliban and a celebration of women the world over who support their loved ones with tenacity, inventiveness and sheer guts.
People magazine, People Pick 4-star review
A truly uplifting true story . . . a book to be shared across genders and generations.
O magazine, Top Ten Books to Pick Up Now
An engaging nonfiction look at the lives of women living under the Taliban. . . . Teens will be amazed by the courage and determination of Kamela Sediqi, the subject of The Dressmaker of Khair Khana. Lemmon does an outstanding job of conveying the powerful sisterhood of Sidiqi's team as well as the women's incredible passion for work in the midst of unspeakable brutality and danger. Understanding that Sidiqi has known nothing but war her entire life, this inspiring and powerful story of hope and resiliency will make a lasting impression on the reader.
The glimpse into this hidden world of women under the Taliban is so valuable. . . . And it is because the story is so seldom told that The Dressmaker of Khair Khana verges on required reading. At the very least, it is an important reminder of the power of the public eye. Regardless of how heroic they are, women behind closed doors seldom appear in the news or recorded history. It can be easy to forget that they even exist.
The book is backed by a perfect blend of publishing elements—a remarkable Afghan heroine, a high-profile writer, bookseller support and a marketing campaign with a celebrity roster.
[A] remarkable story of an ingenious young Afghan woman who, under the Taliban's rule, created jobs for 100 women.
An exciting, engrossing [story] that reads like a novel, complete with moments of tension and triumph, plus well-researched detail on daily life in Kabul under Taliban rule . . . It's a fascinating story that touches on family, gender, business, and politics and offers inspiration through the resourceful, determined woman at its heart.
A true, inspiring story of courageous women and quiet heroism at work in Taliban-era Afghanistan.
An inspiring, uplifting story about one woman's extraordinary courage and ingenuity in the face of adversity.
An inspiring story of courageous community building. ... The product of several years of in-depth interviewing ... [Lemmon] pays scrupulous attention to detail ... [and] convincingly evokes the atmosphere of Taliban-era Kabul.
Kamila Sidiqi's unforgettable story shows just how far we are willing to go for those we love, and proves once again the power of girls to remake our world. This is one of the most inspiring books I have ever read.
Greg Mortenson, author of Three Cups of Tea
The Dressmaker of Khair Khana gives voice to many of our world's unsung heroines. Against all odds, these young women created hope and community, and they never gave up. This book is guaranteed to move you—and to show you a side of Afghanistan few ever see.
Angelina Jolie, UN goodwill ambassador
Books on Afghanistan usually fall into one of two categories: policy oriented polemics, or simple tales about do-gooders. Rarely has an author been so successful in turning on-the-ground reportage into a dramatic and yet deeply informative story. The Dressmaker of Khair Khana reads like great fiction and yet it is all true; this book will grab you from the first sentence and take you on an amazing journey that crosses many borders: cultural, geographical, intellectual and, most importantly, emotional. It is a must read.
Mohamed El-Erian, author of When Markets Collide
Gayle Lemmon's riveting portrait of Kamila, told with grace, elegance and passion, captures the extraordinary tenacity and ingenuity of one woman who quietly triumphed under the Taliban for the sake of her family. A powerful read that serves as a reminder that Afghanistan can never thrive until it embraces the active involvement of women—with their resourcefulness, spirit and resilience—in its leadership and future.
In the NewsGayle Lemmon on Utah Public Radio
HarperCollinsNY Mag: Gayle Tzemach Lemmon Doesn't Notice Whether Vegan Food Is Warm or Cold
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on Wisconsin Public Radio
HarperCollinsHarper's Bazaar: How fashion saved my family from the Taliban
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on Bloomberg Radio
HarperCollinsPBS NewsHour: Afghan Dressmaker Helps Inspire Other Start-Ups
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on Tavis Smiley
HarperCollinsDaily Beast: When Everything Changed
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on Andrea Mitchell Reports
HarperCollinsYahoo: Celebrating the strength of women in Afghanistan
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on Morning Joe
HarperCollinsAgainst All Odds: PW Talks with Gayle Tzemach Lemmon
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on the Diane Rehm Show
HarperCollinsWomen in Public Affairs Interview with Gayle Lemmon
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on WNYC's Leonard Lopate Show
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on NPR's Morning Edition
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on Marketplace Radio
HarperCollinsGayle Lemmon on WNYC's Brian Lehrer Show
HarperCollinsAtlantic: Good Book Reviews Are No Longer Enough
HarperCollinsWomen's Wear Daily: Sewing Persistence in the Taliban Era
HarperCollinsCNN: Why think small when it comes to women in poor nations?
HarperCollinsAfghan Home-Grown Entrepreneurs
HarperCollinsInc.com: Afghanistan's Enterprising Women
HarperCollinsLife for Afghan Women Under Taliban Rule
HarperCollinsNYT: Three New Books Highlight Female Entrepreneurship
HarperCollinsThe Dressmaker of Khair Khana by Gayle Tzemach Lemmon
Reading on a Rainy DayNew York Post's Required Reading
New York PostBook Review: 'The Dressmaker of Khair Khana'
TheStreetIs Your Business Stuck? If An Afghan Dressmaker Can Do It, So Can You